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Caring for African Hair
Part 2 of Sherri Gragg's Hair Matters! Series
September 01,2007 / Sherri Gragg
Untitled Document

In part 2 of this regular series on African Hair Care, adoptive mom Sherri Gragg teams up with friend Stephanie Fitzgerald to share a variety of tips on hair products. Visit Sherri's Voices of Adoption Profile to read this full series and other articles by Sherri Gragg.

It was a Friday night not long after we had submitted our application to adopt from Haiti and I was on a mission. My quest? Investigate African American hair products. My destination? Wal-Mart.

Nervously, I steered my cart toward the section of the health and beauty department that previously I had always passed by without a second thought. I came to a stop in front of an array of bottles, tubes, and jars. I scanned the labels looking for something which would give me a hint as to what I would need to take care of a black child's hair. Sadly, there were no products entitled:

Hair Products for the Black Children of White Mothers Who Don't Have a Clue What They are Doing.

I stood there awhile longer waiting for inspiration to strike but it was like attempting to read a foreign language. I turned my empty cart around and went home.

After that, I began to approach black friends and ask what they used on their daughters' hair. Time after time, they would respond in vague terms about things that were as familiar to them as breath. They would say things like pink lotion.

Pink lotion?

But.I kept asking questions and I kept researching. Once my daughters came home two long years later, I began the process of trying different products. Some were recommended by friends and some I discovered on my own. What I found is that although some needs of black hair are universal, there are many different textures of hair and something that works for one person might not necessarily work for another. My girls have been home for over a year and a half now and I have finally found a system that works for us.

Aren't you glad you don't have to go through all of that? You are saved because I have invited my friend Stephanie Fitzgerald to bring along her expertise to this article on hair products. Stephanie is the hair authority in my church. She is an African American woman with five children among whom are represented just about every hair texture possible.

Below, I will share the products and tools that have worked for both of us. I will also tell you where Stephanie and I buy our products and the good news is, I get some of mine on-line and most of the rest are readily available at your local pharmacy or Wal-Mart. So, settle in and get ready to shop like an expert for the tools you need to make your little one gorgeous, but as you do, please remember that Stephanie and I are simply letting you in on what works for us to point you in the right direction. We can not guarantee every product for every person.  

Products  

Shampoos and Conditioners

Perhaps the greatest difference between black and white hair is the need for moisture. While many of us who are white are looking for products to remove the excess oil from our hair, the needs of black hair are just the opposite. I once heard a white friend commenting to a group of women that her twin daughters who are transracially adopted from Africa loved to play in the tub and dump water over their heads. A black friend of ours said, You better stop them from dumping that soapy water over their heads! One of these days you are going to get them out of the tub and their hair will be so dry it will just break off and fall out!

Black hair only needs to be washed once every couple of weeks and then it must be done with a moisturizing shampoo. Michele N-K Collison has written a wonderful book to teach African American Women what for many is the lost art of hair care entitled, It's All Good Hair . She recommends a shampoo with a Ph balance between 5 and 6.5.

Sherri's Pick:

For my girls, I love Neutrogena Triple Moisture Cream Lather Shampoo . It is a thick, rich product that cleans well without stripping the hair. I began using it on both of my girls as soon as they were home from Haiti and although my youngest daughter was two years old at the time with many skin issues, she had no adverse reactions to this product .

After I finish shampooing, I apply on Neutrogena Triple Moisture Deep Recovery Hair Mask . It is a wonderful moisturizing hair treatment. Both products list their key ingredients as Olive, Meadowfoam Seed, and Sweet Almond extracts.

I also keep on hand Motions for Kids Detangling & Moisturizing Conditioner for especially tough tangles. A more common use for this product in my home is to ease braid removal.

Stephanie's Pick:

Stephanie uses Infusium 23 (moistur)ologie shampoo and conditioner for all hair textures in her family.

She also sometimes uses Motions Moisture Plus After Shampoo Conditioner.

Stephanie feels this product offers enough flexibility to be used on several different textures of African Hair and is a great choice for larger families. Families with just one or two children may want to experiment to find the exact product that works best for their child.

Moisturizing Products

As you have learned, African hair will typically require additional moisture. This is the purpose of the pink lotion so many of my friends recommended. Pink lotion is simply hair oil. One product I used for awhile was the BB's brand but I noticed that although it seemed to moisturize my girl's hair initially, it was not long before it seemed dry again. My beautician confirmed my suspicions: Although BB's or other pink lotions can aid in combing through the hair, water is a predominant ingredient so it does not provide lasting moisture which is why I now use a detangling conditioner for that purpose.

Sherri's Picks:

Cornrow Magic Cornrow Crème : I love this product so much that I order it on line. I originally used the kid's version but I recently purchased the adult version when my on-line source discontinued the one for kids. The new one is just as good. It not only does a great job but smells terrific.

Kid's Organics Soft Hold Styling Pomade & Hairdress : This product has lanolin in it which is wonderful for the scalp. I use it to tame the frizzies and for simpler styles. My girls both detest the smell though and although I do not find the odor offensive, I have to admit it does not smell great either . One more caution, this is not a good product for someone with an allergy to wool.

Vitamin E Oil : Sometimes I use this on particularly dry spots on the scalp.

Silk Elements Revive & Restore Hair and Scalp Sheen Enhancing Spray : This product is oil spray with olive oil and clove extract. I use it to add moisture to my girl's hair when they have cornrows, Zulu knots or flat twists. I have found that if I attempt to add moisture by rubbing a lotion or pomade into the style, the friction makes their hair frizz. This product is a good solution.

Stephanie's Picks:

BB's Super Grow with vitamin E for Scalp . A common use for a product like this is to apply a small amount right down the part in the hair .

Africa 's Best Herbal Oil (Stephanie says this is good when the hair needs moisture and the stylist wants to be able to easily comb thorough it.) The product makers claim this oil may be used in the bath, on the body and that it will relieve a dry, itch scalp.

 

 

*Styling Products*

Sherri's Picks:

Cornrow Magic Cornrow Crème

Kid's Organics Soft Hold Styling Pomade and Hairdress

Stephanie's Picks:

Soft Sheen Carson 's Let's Jam Shining and Conditioning Gel Extra Hold : This product does just what it says. It helps set the style as well as provide moisture. It also aids in the taming of the frizzies.

Ampro Pro Style Gel : To be used with a boar-bristle brush along the hair line to smooth the frizzies. This is also a good product to use at night under a sleep cap or wrap to maintain a style.

 

Stephanie's Salon Product Picks:

If you are willing to spend a little extra, Stephanie loves Kera products. The two she had with her when I interviewed her for this article were : Kera Care High Sheen Glossifier and Kera DeMinerlizing Treatment.

Kera Care High Sheen Glossifier was also recommended to me by my girls' hair stylist. I have seen her use this as a pomade and also to provide moisture to the scalp along the part.

Kera DeMineralizing Treatment is in a wipe form and removes calcium, magnesium and other minerals from the hair. Stephanie suggests using after swimming.

*Tools of the Trade*

Wide tooth comb (tangles)

Rat tail comb ( parts )

Boar-bristle brush (smooth the hair)

Clips (section hair for styling and combing)

Goody Ouchless Elastics (Do not break hair)

Satin sleep cap, head wrap or do rag (Note: This is important to keep a new style from frizzing. Little girls will commonly pull them off at night in the beginning but be patient and keep explaining to them that the night cap will help keep their hair beautiful.)

I hope you have found this product list informative. I learned some things from meeting with Stephanie as well and look forward to trying out some of her top choices. With the exception of the salon products, everything listed above can be found at Wal-Mart and many pharmacies. Sally Beauty Supply is often a good resource as well .

Check out my blog where I frequently post pictures of my own girl's hairstyles: www.everydaymiracle.wordpress.com I have also recently begun offering a variety of resources for adoptive families and families of color as an Amazon affiliate on my website www.sherrigragg.com

Sherri Gragg and her husband Michael live in Franklin, Tennessee with their 5 children. Sherri is part of the Voices of Adoption Community. Read more of Sherri's articles .

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Readers Comments  (26 Comments)  View All Comments
I am an AA woman who just stopped using chemical relaxers last year. Your information is very accurate. Hair care is an individual process as I have learned. What works for me may not work for others. Keep researching and caring for the girls!- Anonymous
Hello, I am a biracial child of an Indian mother. She grew up with beautiful silky hair and was at a loss of how to deal with mine. She tried all kinds of lotions, thick pomades, and weekly oil masks. Awful. Now all I do is shampoo my hair once a week. I rinse it and apply a leave-in conditioner every day though, and let it air dry. And now people tug at my ringlets to see them bounce into place :) it's the best compliment- Sandy
What a wonderful page. I had 2 little girls come to live with me temporarily 2 days ago. They had been looked after for a week by another white couple who obviously didnt realize the importance of caring for the girls hair. consiquently I am now trying my damnest to add some moisture to there hair as it is impossible to comb and is very dry and tight. will pay a visit to the hair dressers when they have settled in. thankyou will do my best till then with the info i've just learnt.- claire
hi i was just wondering if you could please tell me where you get the Silk Elements Revive & Restore Hair and Scalp Sheen Enhancing Spray . Thanks- Cristy
A satin cap is great but YES kids keep taking them off. Get her a satin pillowcase and no matter how they toss and turn they get the benefits. Black or Biracial hair is so dry and cotton just absorbs all the moisture and oils out compounding the problem. The ends of the hair get caught in between the fibers of most fabrics. With satin or silk that won't happen. A Touch Of Satin sells pillowcases that are really beautiful and really different. I saw them on Blaq Siren Hair Dec.23rd blog date.- Blessed Mom
Hi. I am a black woman and I wanted to see what you had to say and was plesently suprised. I have read articals that said most black people were dirty for not washing hair daily. Thank you for understanding are hair is diffrent. I also wanted to say I use many of the product you named. Have a blessed day.- Wilishah
I speak of these same topics on my blog and have a lot of information about children' hair care for parents. Please email me for the link information.- Fleurzty
Great story Sherri!! A few things: Pink Lotion and BB don't work (not because of the high water content) but because of the mineral oil and petroletum. These are lubricants that seal the hair so any moisture that you apply afterwards will not penetrate, leaving hair greasy but dry. Water = good moisturizer, oil seals in moisture. Infusium= high protein so don't use it too often. If the hair frizzes after applying moisture, tie it with a scarf for a few minutes. Find shampoos without sulfates.- Hairguru
One thing I disagree with is how often the hair should be washed, I wash my type 4a/kinky hair every 3 days, in order to maintain moisture balance, so the myth that black hair should only be washed every couple of weeks is just that, a myth.- Anonymous
My children are not adopted, but they are biracial. I am white and my husband is Haitian. This site was a lot of help. Do you have advise(pictures and instructions) on hair styles for young girls?- Christy B
Thank you for your article. My daughter should be with us in about 8 months. One thing I didn't see in your article is what to do about hair loss. Our little girl is 9 yrs old and suffers from hair loss - some I'm sure is tied to her lack of nutrients and vitamins, but other is tied to the lack of proper hair care. Is there a product to induce hair growth?- Marti
One of the items not mentioned here is "hair grease" (a light oil in solid form) we use Hemp Oil that is about $2 at the drugstore and it works wonders. Another tip is to purchase sating pillow cases for your child for those times when their sleep cap/head scarf comes off in their sleep.- Anonymous
Thank you so much - this is the best resource I've seen for someone who is really starting out with absolutely ZERO knowledge. Our adoption will be final tomorrow of our niece (her mother, my sis in law, is caucasion, dad is AA). She's been living with us for almost a year now (she's 15 mo.), and is just at the point where she has enough hair that I need to start doing something with it - I researched right away about washing, so her hair is in good shape, but this helps tremendously.- Kary
adoptionhair_skincare is a large and active yahoo group started by families that have adopted children of African and/or Carribean Descent, and would like to share about Hair care for African-American, Black, and bi-racial children. - Anonymous
I want to add my voice to your newly forming fan club. I appreciate these articles and I am printing them all out for my adoption folder!- Anonymous
I'm glad someone like you is writing about this topic. I'm someone who has had to learn on my own and it would have been so very nice to hear this advice years ago! Keep on going!- Alicia
It took five years of dumping on moisturizer, worrying the hair was dry, before I was finally told that my niece wasn't supposed to have greasy hair, and that what felt dry to me might be normal for her. Great advice in the article, just my own experience after taking the advice too far. :)- RaeAnne
you go girl! i admire your dedication and perserverance...even my own mom had me with many bad hair days :) from an african american just checkin' you out- Anonymous
Sherri, girl, that's what I'm talk'n about. You did your home work and you did it well. And isn't it wonderful to have friends that you can go to . Thank's for sharing this information. Keep up the good work! Try satin hair scarfs in stead of cotton, they also make satin sleeping bonets that has a light elastic around the band like a shower cap, to help it stay on during the night while sleeping. This way the fabric doesn't absorb the moisture from the hair that may sometimes cause breakage. - Sylvia
Great article. I'll include a link to your sites on my website so other moms (and dads) can find it when they first bring the child home and are learning about black hair. Thanks for the research.- Dawn Davenport
This is a very practical guide and I look forward to your promised future articles. Thank you!- Janice R.
I could go on and on, but there isn't enough room. lol Sherri, your tips are great! I'm glad you have taken such an interest in keeping your daughters' hair healthy!- Gina
Pantene Relaxed and Natural is also a great shampoo for AA hair. I don't care much for the conditioner. I prefer Nexxus Humectress conditioner. It is a little bit pricey but is sooo worth it IMO. Satin headwraps are always a plus. Cotton ones seems to absorb oil from the hair. If your kids toss and turn alot, like I do, chances are the scarf will come off from time to time. Having satin pillowcases, instead of cotton ones, add extra "insurance" against frizzes. - Gina
I have washed my dry, coarse, hair every 5-7 days for years, and I have a head full of strong healthy hair. My sister washes her 3 girls' hair (who have hair like mine) once a week. Their hair is nice and healthy as well. Because it takes so many products to keep AA hair maintained, I wouldn't go longer than 2 weeks between washing . Dirty, "greasy" hair doesn't look much better than hair that hasn't been combed.- Gina
I am an African American woman. I have to say, you have certainly done your research! Most of the things you said here is what my mom use to do to my hair and my sisters' hair. Our hair types ranged from fine (my older sister) to super kinky (myself). I would like to add a couple of things to your tips. First: It is true that AA hair should not be washed everyday. However, the frequency of hair washing seems to always be up for debate. - Gina
Thank you for sharing this information. I secretly worry MORE about caring for my daughter's hair than any other part of our upcoming adoption from Ethiopia.- Cynthia Preston
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